The period of history from 1900-to 1919 saw dramatic shifts in what was considered appropriate dress. The Victorian Era had been one that glorified modesty and required layers of heavy and restrictive clothing. The reign of King Edward VII, known as the Edwardian Era or as La Belle Epoque, followed and was a time of luxury and extravagance- a stark contrast to the war years to follow.
Silhouettes
In the early 20th century, the ideal woman was older and curvaceous, yet slender and fragile. The desired S-shape figure was achieved with the help of a corset that “thrust the breasts forward forming a “monobosom” above a tiny waist” (Taylor & Givenchy, 2013). The embodiment of this perfect specimen of female beauty was referred to as the Gibson Girl. A term coined from female illustrations done by artist Charles Dana Gibson.
The corset was flat fronted, emphasized the chest, and forced the lower back to arch, accentuating a protruding bum. The corsets were boned and required the help of another person to lace them up.
The blouses at this time were often voluminous and bust enhancers were used to exaggerate the breast, giving the aesthetic of a pigeon’s breast.
Though corsets emphasized the bust, blouses had layers of fabric gathered and draped at the front to emphasize volume rather than define the shape of natural breast. Bust enhancers, camisoles and bust bodices were layered under ladies’ blouses to create an exaggerated pigeonesque bust. Blouse armholes were high cut, restricting a woman’s ability to lift her arms, and necessitating a lady’s maid to assist in dressing. During this era, women were changing their outfits several times a day, based on time of day and activity.
Skirts were floor length, with a protruding rear which was achieved with layered petticoats and a bustle. Skirts were slim cut at the hips and flared out below the hips with a train.
After the death of King Edward VII in 1910, more youthful looks gained popularity. Silhouettes became more vertical, and the corset moved lower over the hips. The onset of war brought about the simplifaction of clothing due to rationing, women’s increased presence in the workforce and their need for mobility. These new garments had less room underneath for layers of underclothing, though the corset’s popularity endured throughout the first two decades of the 20th century. The layering used for the pigeon breast silhouette was replaced with brassieres which had a modest amount of breast support, more suitable to the increasingly active lifestyles of women in the 1910s. Hemlines came up off the ground, the natural bust shape was visible and skirts became more slim fitting and cylindrical. There was lots of silhouette experimentation as well, such as Paul Poiret’s lampshade dresses and hobble skirts as well as the empire waistlines which became popular for evening wear. In this era, we start to see many influences from non-western cultures in western clothing design.
How was style being spread?
The two decades of the 20th century was the beginning of the technological revolution. The scale of industry and production grew like never before. Mass manufacturing developed with the auto industry in North America. Factory efficiency systems like Taylorism and Fordism, relying on modular products and low skill assembly allowed more items to be produced than ever before.
The invention of the Singer sewing machine in 1898 had quickly become an item that was visible in homes with may women making or at least mending clothes for themselves and their families. Women purchased clothing, fabric and even sewing patterns by mail, through catalogues distributed thanks to the new rail system. These catalogues were produced by department stores like Eatons and Sears for women who were unable to visit the actual stores.
Art Trends
Art Nouveau
A style of art that is characterized by long organic lines. It was a new style that broke away from the past trend of historic realism. It was popular in Europe and North America from 1890 – 1910 across many art disciplines.
Fig. 13. The Kiss. Painting by Gustav Klimt,1907-1908.
Fauvism
A style of painting that is characterized by exploration of pure, vibrant colour rather than the depiction of realism. It originated in Paris, and was only popular from 1904 until the onset of WW1.
Fig. 14. Woman with a Hat. Painting by Herni Matisse, 1905.
Cubism
An style of art that began in 1907. It is characterized by the experimentation of perspective and form as well as the use of geometry. It is also believed in the case of Pablo Picasso to be heavily influenced by African masks and their shapes.
Fig. 15. Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Painting by Pablo Picasso, 1907.
Futurism
An artistic movement originating in Italy that depicted a new and energetic future, particularly in relation to evolving technologies. It was mostly explored from 1909-1914.
Fig 16. Dancer at Pigalle. Painting by Gino Severini, 1912.
World War I
When men were called away to war, women joined the workforce in mass. In great numbers they took to factories and other jobs to keep society moving. Many of the jobs they took on were labour intensive and they would have been unable to do them in the restrictive garments of the early 1900s. Garments like the hobble skirt were not to maintain popularity as the frivilous was replaced with the practical. Hemlines rose higher and in some jobs women wore pants or overalls. That being said, France continued to produce couture and North Americans continued to buy it.
Designers of Note
Lucille -Sold through licensing agreement with sears catalogue, frivilous, highly embellished dresses with romantic names. Scandal around husband bribing for a lifeboat on the Titanic. Stole designs from a young designer.
Mariano Fortuney – The magician of Venice. worn by woman who wanted to be outside of main trends. The delphos dress. Printed Bias Tape Detail. His wife was the true creator of the dress
Elizabeth Arden and the Suffragettes
Suffragettes were women who in the early 20th century were fighting for women’s right to vote.
Elizabeth Arden marched with suffragettes and gave them all red lipstick which was supposed to be the colour of eqality and female empowerment.
Image: Suffragettes March in NYC.
Thoughts
The first two decades of the 20th century were ones of rapid change. Lifestyles and expectations on women evolved greatly due to the work done by feminists these changes were further expidited due to the WWI. Women entered the century, changing outfits constantly, having restricted mobility and requiring aid to done and doff their clothing. Elizabeth Arden and the red lips of suffragettes to me seems like the first instance of women’s freedoms being tied up with their sexual allure.
References:
Fig. 1 Taylor, K., & Givenchy, H. (2013). Vintage Fashion and Couture: From Poiret to McQueen. Firefly Books.
Fig. 2 Atelier Nostalgia. (2015, October 14). Achieving the Edwardian silhouette – but how? Retrieved March 1, 2022, from https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2015/10/14/achieving-the-edwardian-silhouette-but-how/
Fig. 3 Lid, A. (2020, July 25). Fashion In Transition: The Early 1900s. Lily Absinthe. Retrieved February 10, 2022, from https://lilyabsinthe.com/fashion-in-transition-the-early-1900s-part-1/
Fig. 4 LACMA. (n.d.). Woman’s Bust Improver (Falsies) | LACMA Collections. Retrieved February 13, 2022, from https://collections.lacma.org/node/214136
Fig. 5 Lid, A. (2020, July 25). Fashion In Transition: The Early 1900s. Lily Absinthe. Retrieved February 10, 2022, from https://lilyabsinthe.com/fashion-in-transition-the-early-1900s-part-1/
Fig. 6 The Underpinnings Museum. (2019, January 13). “The Scott” Ventilated Hip Pad & Bustle by Charles H. Scott. Retrieved March 13, 2022, from https://underpinningsmuseum.com/museum-collections/the-scott-ventilated-hip-pad-bustle-by-charles-h-scott/
Fig. 7 Lazarus, S. (2013, January 18). 1913 Dresses. A Hundred Years Ago. Retrieved March 2, 2022, from https://ahundredyearsago.com/2013/01/18/1913-dresses/
Fig. 8 O’Conner, Moffatt & Company. (n.d.). Corset 1918–19. Www.Metmuseum.Org/. Retrieved March 13, 2022, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157625?ft=1918+corset&offset=0&rpp=40&pos=1
Fig. 9 Goenka, K. (2018, December 9). Why did the Hobble skirt become popular? – Kanupriya Goenka. Medium. Retrieved March 13, 2022, from https://medium.com/@kanupriya.goenka/why-did-the-hobble-skirt-become-popular-e86dbdd06880
Fig. 10 Zimlich, J. (2020, April 20). Sorbet: A Palate Cleanser. Chicago History Museum. Retrieved January 13, 2022, from https://www.chicagohistory.org/sorbet-a-palate-cleanser/
